The Punch Bowl

Hares and aeroplanes on Lochnagar, Cairngorms, Scotland – September

We made a 9.10am start from a car park a few miles east our of Braemar. We had intended to follow a circular walk going up to Lochnagar, but were asked by the representative of a big group of stalkers in several 4x4s to keep to paths and come back the same way from the top. It felt like we were herded up the lower slopes until we reached the first col of the ‘ridge’, between Carn an t-Sagairt Mòr and Carn an t-Sagairt Beag (Big and Little Hills of the Priest). Some hares were jumping around on Carn an t-Sagairt Beag. Skirting around Carn a’ Choire Bhoidheach, we passed the large cairn on Cac Carn Mòr to reach the top of Cac Carn Beag. These two high points on Lochnagar (1113m and 1115m respectively). For some reason, the bigger one is called ‘little’, and the smaller one is called ‘big’. We took a few photos, had a sandwich, then set off again as the top was getting a bit crowded with people who had come up via other routes.

Starting back the way we had come, we went up another munro, Carn a’ Choire Bhoidheach, which we went by earlier. Getting back to the main path, then back down to the first col, we looked at an aeroplane wing resting on the ground which was from a crash in 1949. Then we went up to the top of another munro which we passed earlier, Carn an t-Sagairt Mòr, with more aeroplane debris higher up and an interesting cairn arrangement on the top. After that, we headed down the way we had come. It began to rain again (there had also been some sleet earlier), and we took a slight detour once we were in the forest to look at some wateralls marked on the map. We got back to the car park exactly 8 hours later, when the sun decided to come out.

After buying a few groceries in Braemar, we drove on to the Linn of Quioich (a loop round past the Linn of Dee and Mar Lodge along the way). Having parked, we took a short walk to look for the Punch Bowl, which is marked on the OS map as a sight of interest. We eventually found this – a large round hole in the rock just above the river that a person could pass through. On our way back down, we came across an unusual-looking elderly woman who had earlier been walking along the road leading a horse. She was finding a place to wild camp with her horse and dog. Then a woman standing by her car asked us about the track ahead, as she was trying to plan a cycle route for a friend. We were not able to help as we had not gone any further ourselves. We then drove back to the Linn of Dee and looked around there – it is very impressive! We went right up to the edge of the linn to get a closer look, and did not hand around for long as we did not want to lose our footing there.

Lots of fauna-spotting today: on the first top, we saw hares, and saw ptarmigan close-up (I had started wondering if the droppings I had been seeing were from grouse, as we had seen many red and a few black grouse earlier in the day). We also saw hares on the last side munro with the aeroplane debris. A red squirrel made a brief appearance as we came out of the forest near the car park. The length of the walk ended up being longer than originally planned, probably about 16 miles.

Spot the hare

Spot the hare

Looking over to Lochnagar

Looking over to Lochnagar. I think you can see on the left Cac Carn Mòr, the first (and slightly lower) top of Lochnagar, behind Creag a’ Ghlas-uillt and the White Mounth.

Cac Carn Mòr summit cairn on Lochnagar

Cac Carn Mòr summit cairn on Lochnagar. It’s actually very big, maybe why this slightly lower top is called ‘mòr’ or ‘big’?

Looking east down gully into Corrie of Lochnagar

Looking east down gully into Corrie of Lochnagar. The loch Lochnagar is just out of sight to the right behind the crags.

Looking west-south-west into Coire Lochan nan Eun which contains Lochan nan Eun

Looking west-south-west into Coire Lochan nan Eun which contains Lochan nan Eun.

On Cac Carn Beag, the summit of Lochnagar

On Cac Carn Beag, the summit of Lochnagar, with another stone dial. Looking east at the small cone of Miekle Pap and the cliff edge of Cuidhe Cròm.

Looking back south at Cac Carn Mòr

Looking back south at Cac Carn Mòr. You can now get a better idea of the size of the cairn.

Lochnagar engraved stone dial

Another engraved stone dial, like the one on the summit of Ben Macdui

Another little rainbow

Another little rainbow

Miekle Pap and the cliff edge of Cuidhe Cròm

Miekle Pap and the cliff edge of Cuidhe Cròm

... and more moisture, of course

… and more moisture, of course. Looking south-south-west?

A stone angel

A stone angel

The first bit of aeroplane debris

The first bit of aeroplane debris

More debris part way up the hill

More debris part way up the hill to Carn an t-Sagairt Mòr

Carn an t-Sagairt Mòr summit cairn

Carn an t-Sagairt Mòr summit cairn

Looking south-west into Coire Loch Kander

Looking south-west into Coire Loch Kander, with, guess what, Loch Kander!

Looking over to Lochnagar with Carn a' Choire Bhoidheach in the sunshine

Looking over to Lochnagar with Carn a’ Choire Bhoidheach in the sunshine

Walking back past the debris

Walking back past the debris

Dubh Loch

Dubh Loch, looking south-east

Going back down the Ballochbuie Forest path

Going back down the Ballochbuie Forest path

Another tree with twisted bark

Another tree with twisted bark

Looking for the Punch Bowl

Looking for the Punch Bowl in the Linn of Quoich by Quoich Water

Water rushing through a narrow cleft in the rocks

Water rushing through a narrow cleft in the rocks

The Punch Bowl

The Punch Bowl, big enough for a person to go through

With a person to provide scale

The Punch Bowl, with a person to provide scale

The Punch Bowl from another angle

The Punch Bowl from another angle

Footbridge over Linn of Quoich

Footbridge over Linn of Quoich

Looking down from the footbridge downstream (south-east side)

Looking down from the footbridge downstream (south-east side)

Linn of Quoich

Linn of Quoich

The bridge at the Linn of Dee

The bridge at the Linn of Dee, with the water flowing west to east (looking upstream).

Linn of Dee, further downstream from the bridge

Linn of Dee, further downstream from the bridge

The force of the water

The force of the water

Sunset over the River Dee

Sunset over the River Dee

Getting a closer look at the linn

Getting a closer look at the linn (just west of the bridge)

A lot of water

That is a lot of water.

The sculpted sides of the Linn of Dee

The sculpted sides of the Linn of Dee

Looking down the west side of the bridge

Looking down the west side of the bridge

Looking down the east side of the bridge

Looking down the east side of the bridge

And on it goes

And on it goes.

The gouges get bigger!

The gouges get bigger!

The tortuous movement of the water

The tortuous movement of the water. I had to hold the camera as still as possible in the fading light. You can still see the thin gap under the big rock on the left through which the water is flowing through.

A better view of the bridge

A better view of the bridge

The deep, dark water

The deep, dark water

Spot the hareLooking over to LochnagarCac Carn Mòr summit cairn on LochnagarLooking east down gully into Corrie of LochnagarLooking west-south-west into Coire Lochan nan Eun which contains Lochan nan EunOn Cac Carn Beag, the summit of LochnagarLooking back south at Cac Carn MòrLochnagar engraved stone dialAnother little rainbowMiekle Pap and the cliff edge of Cuidhe Cròm... and more moisture, of courseA stone angelThe first bit of aeroplane debrisMore debris part way up the hillCarn an t-Sagairt Mòr summit cairnLooking south-west into Coire Loch KanderLooking over to Lochnagar with Carn a' Choire Bhoidheach in the sunshineWalking back past the debrisDubh LochGoing back down the Ballochbuie Forest pathAnother tree with twisted barkLooking for the Punch BowlWater rushing through a narrow cleft in the rocksThe Punch BowlWith a person to provide scaleThe Punch Bowl from another angleFootbridge over Linn of QuoichLooking down from the footbridge downstream (south-east side)Linn of QuoichThe bridge at the Linn of DeeLinn of Dee, further downstream from the bridgeThe force of the waterSunset over the River DeeGetting a closer look at the linnA lot of waterThe sculpted sides of the Linn of DeeLooking down the west side of the bridgeLooking down the east side of the bridgeAnd on it goesThe gouges get bigger!The tortuous movement of the waterA better view of the bridgeThe deep, dark water



Map showing walk route

View Lochnagar – Sept 2012 in a larger map

Map showing Linn of Quoich and Linn of Dee near Braemar

View Linn of Quoich and Linn of Dee – Sept 2012 in a larger map