Mist clearing off the ridge

Traversing over the pinnacles of Liathach, Torridon, Scotland – September

Liathach day. We got up early-ish, had breakfast, and drove to the starting place for Liathach. We set off at 7.50am. I tried to keep my trepidation under control – I had always looked at Liathach with a little fear, and reading descriptions of the route we were taking that day had never changed this. As we worked our way up the surprisingly good path, we saw someone further ahead; I had no desire to catch up with anyone on this route, but we passed D as he was returning from his detour to Stuc a’ Choire Dhuidh Bhig to continue along the rest of the ridge. He was doing the walk on his own, and we ended up chatting to him as we passed each other a few times on the ridge that day. We also dropped our packs to do the detour to the eastern top, and picked up our packs on our return to the point where we had joined the ridge.

There was a little wind and a bit of mist on the ridge earlier on, but these cleared. We passed over the first Munro, Spidean a’ Choire Leith, and carried on towards the Am Fasarinen Pinnacles. These pinnacles that we had been fearing turned out to be fine, at least on the day we were there. There was one tricky bit, the direct ascent of which is described as a grade 3 scramble, which we negotiated by carefully scrambling up an easier but somewhat steep rock ‘ladder’ to the left. We found the rest of the pinnacles straightforward. Once past this section, we continued at a relaxed pace, taking our time to look at the views and take photographs.

Before too long we reached the second Munro of the ridge and our last top of the day, Mullach an Rathain. B went off to explore the eroding north ridge extending from this top a little way, while I read the ‘Danger’ notice about work being done on the path from that point downwards. We saw no “site manager” to advise us any further, so after a short stop we started down the steep scree slope of Toll Ban, with D. The description of this descent as ‘knee-jarring’ had put me off in the past, as I can have a bit of trouble with my knees, but although not particularly pleasant, it was not as bad as I had imagined. Once we reached the road, we walked along it to get back to our vehicles, being bothered by midges and clegs in the still atmosphere. We passed a man and his dog going in the opposite direction, whom we had first come across on the ridge as he was approaching the pinnacles; he had asked us for our opinion on how his dog might handle the pinnacles. Back at the ‘car park’, D continued on his 3-day jaunt of the north-west highlands, and we drove back to the Torridon campsite to stay another night. We were very pleased to have got to do two of the three top priority routes on our wishlist!

Liathach in the early morning sunlight

Liathach in the early morning sunlight

Liathach ridge

Liathach ridge

Nearing the ridge

Approaching a bowl-shaped corrie as we neared the ridge

Corrie near ridge

Corrie near ridge

Coire Liath over to the left

Coire Liath over to the left

Our route over the shoulder of Coire Liath Mhor

Our route over the shoulder of Coire Liath Mhor

Allowing myself to look back down

Allowing myself to look back down

The stepped side of Doire Beithe

The stepped side of Doire Beithe below Seana Mheallan

Looking south-east

Looking south-east

Amphitheatre-like corrie

The amphitheatre-like corrie

The steep sides of Liathach

The steep sides of Liathach

The floor of the glen

The floor of the glen. Is that tiny dot our vehicle down there?

Beinn na h-Eaglaise and Beinn Damph seen over the side of Liathach

Beinn na h-Eaglaise and Beinn Damph seen over the side of Liathach

A view from a bit higher up

A view from a bit higher up

View over the other side of the ridge

View over the other side of the ridge. One end of Beinn Eighe on the right, Carn na Feola in the middle, and Beinn an Eoin and Baosbheinn further away.

Beinn an Eoin

Beinn an Eoin, which we had visited on a previous trip

The path approaching the ridge

Looking back at the path approaching the ridge

Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe, which we had also visited on previous trips.

Stuc a' Choire Dhuibh Bhig

Heading up on a detour to Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig at the eastern end of the Liathach ridge

View ahead to the rest of Liathach

View ahead to the rest of Liathach. It looks like the top is disappearing!

Beinn Alligin in the distance

The Beinn Alligin ridge, and to its right Stuc Loch na Cabhaig, Beinn Dearg and Carn na Feola in the distance

View north-west

View north-west

Western end of the Beinn Eighe massif

Western end of the Beinn Eighe massif

Beinn Eighe ridge

Beinn Eighe ridge

Beinn Eighe massif

Beinn Eighe massif

The long 'skirt' of Beinn Eighe

The long ‘skirt’ of Beinn Eighe

View south-east

View south-east. The road to Kinlochewe, crossed by the river Allt a’ Choire Dhuibh Mhoir.

Looking south

Looking south

Looking south-west

Looking south-west

Mist clearing off the ridge

Mist clearing off the ridge

Looks different once you are on the ridge

Liathach looks quite different once you are on the ridge, compared to how it looks from below.

The steep sides of Liathach

These steep sides were what really struck me about the major Torridonian ridges on my first visit years ago.

Beinn Eighe and beyond out to sea

Beinn Eighe and beyond out to the sea

Looking north-west towards Loch Maree and the sea

Looking north-west towards Loch Maree and the sea

View from Liathach

View from Liathach

Looking north-west

Looking north-west

Ahead on the ridge

Ahead on the ridge

Another look south

Another look south

It is hard to get everything in the frame

It is hard to get everything in the frame

Beinn Alligin in distance

Beinn Alligin in distance, beyond the slopes of Liathach

B walking onwards

B walking onwards

Looking back at our route so far

Looking back at our route so far

Walking near the edge

It looks like he is about to step off the edge

Mullach an Rathain, still in the distance

Mullach an Rathain, still in the distance

The Am Fasarinen Pinnacles

Looking down ahead to the Am Fasarinen Pinnacles

Looking back again

Looking back again. Beinn Eighe has such nice curves.

Beinn Eighe from Liathach

Beinn Eighe from Liathach

View towards Loch Maree

View towards Loch Maree, with Beinn an Eoin in shadow

View from Liathach

View from Liathach

Another view

Another view

Not yet at the pinnacles

Not yet at the pinnacles. You can see the jagged skyline of the Black Cuillin ridge on the Isle of Skye in the hazy distance, towards the right.

The steep-sided ridge

You can clearly see the bands of rock in the steep sides of the ridge

View back up Spidean Choire Leith

View back up Spidean Choire Leith

Nearly at the pinnacles

Nearly at the pinnacles

The many lochs

The many lochs

Loch Coire na Caime

Loch Coire na Caime

The Am Fasarinen pinnacles

The Am Fasarinen pinnacles

Liathach ridge

The Liathach ridge

The ridge unfolds

The ridge unfolds

Liathach

Liathach

Liathach

Liathach

Interesting rocks

Interesting rocks

The path ahead

The path ahead

Liathach

Liathach

More interesting rock

More interesting rock

A scramble down

A scramble down?

The undulating ridge

The undulating ridge

Loch Coire na Caime

Loch Coire na Caime

Rocks

Rocks

Looking back

Looking back

The grade 3 scramble

The grade 3 scramble (which we did not do)

The top half of the rock 'ladder'

The top half of the rock ‘ladder’ (which we did do)

The bottom half of the rock 'ladder'

The bottom half of the rock ‘ladder’. There is a bit of a drop below that too.

Looking behind

Looking behind

View north-west

View north-west

A bit more scrambling to be done

A bit more scrambling to be done

Liathach ridge, with Upper Loch Torridon in the distance

Liathach ridge, with Upper Loch Torridon in the distance

The way after the pinnacles

The way after the pinnacles

I think that's the scrambling done

I think that’s the scrambling done

View north

View north

View north-west

View north-west

North-west ridge of Mullach an Rathain

North-west ridge of Mullach an Rathain

Steep slopes

Steep slopes

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Looking back over the pinnacles at Spidean a' Choire Leith

Looking back over the pinnacles at Spidean a’ Choire Leith

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scot-liathach_2013-09-08_089
Mullach an Rathain

Mullach an Rathain

Mullach an Rathain

Mullach an Rathain

The north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

The north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

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Back along the ridge

Back along the ridge

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Coire na Caime

Coire na Caime

Upper Loch Torridon

Upper Loch Torridon

The Torridon village end of Upper Loch Torridon

The Torridon village end of Upper Loch Torridon

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Torridon

Torridon

Spidean a' Choire Leith

Spidean a’ Choire Leith, with Beinn Eighe behind

Beinn Eighe across Coire Dubh Mor

Beinn Eighe across Coire Dubh Mor

The crumbly-looking north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

The crumbly-looking north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

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scot-liathach_2013-09-08_108
Coire na Caime

Coire na Caime, where I spotted a person standing in the centre of the bowl

Sgorr a' Chadail, the western end of Liathach

Sgorr a’ Chadail, the western end of the Liathach massif

Beinn Alligin across Coire Mhic Nobaill

Beinn Alligin across Coire MhicNobaill

Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg

Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg

The crumbling north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

The crumbling north ridge of Mullach an Rathain

Coire na Caime

Coire na Caime

Mushroom in Toll Ban

Mushroom seen on way down Toll Ban

The way down

The way down, after the steep scree in Toll Ban.

The guys going ahead

The guys going ahead

Looking back up the descent route

Looking back up the descent route

Liathach in the early morning sunlightLiathach ridgeNearing the ridgeCorrie near ridgeCoire Liath over to the leftOur route over the shoulder of Coire Liath MhorAllowing myself to look back downThe stepped side of Doire BeitheLooking south-eastAmphitheatre-like corrieThe steep sides of LiathachThe floor of the glenBeinn na h-Eaglaise and Beinn Damph seen over the side of LiathachA view from a bit higher upView over the other side of the ridgeBeinn an EoinThe path approaching the ridgeBeinn EigheStuc a' Choire Dhuibh BhigView ahead to the rest of LiathachBeinn Alligin in the distanceView north-westWestern end of the Beinn Eighe massifBeinn Eighe ridgeBeinn Eighe massifThe long 'skirt' of Beinn EigheView south-eastLooking southLooking south-westMist clearing off the ridgeLooks different once you are on the ridgeThe steep sides of LiathachBeinn Eighe and beyond out to seaLooking north-west towards Loch Maree and the seaView from LiathachLooking north-westAhead on the ridgeAnother look southIt is hard to get everything in the frameBeinn Alligin in distanceB walking onwardsLooking back at our route so farWalking near the edgeMullach an Rathain, still in the distanceThe Am Fasarinen PinnaclesLooking back againBeinn Eighe from LiathachView towards Loch MareeView from LiathachAnother viewNot yet at the pinnaclesThe steep-sided ridgeView back up Spidean Choire LeithNearly at the pinnaclesThe many lochsLoch Coire na CaimeThe Am Fasarinen pinnaclesLiathach ridgeThe ridge unfoldsLiathachLiathachInteresting rocksThe path aheadLiathachMore interesting rockA scramble downThe undulating ridgeLoch Coire na CaimeRocksLooking backThe grade 3 scrambleThe top half of the rock 'ladder'The bottom half of the rock 'ladder'Looking behindView north-westA bit more scrambling to be doneLiathach ridge, with Upper Loch Torridon in the distanceThe way after the pinnaclesI think that's the scrambling doneView northView north-westNorth-west ridge of Mullach an RathainSteep slopesLooking back over the pinnacles at Spidean a' Choire LeithMullach an RathainMullach an RathainThe north ridge of Mullach an RathainBack along the ridgeCoire na CaimeUpper Loch TorridonThe Torridon village end of Upper Loch TorridonTorridonSpidean a' Choire LeithBeinn Eighe across Coire Dubh MorThe crumbly-looking north ridge of Mullach an RathainCoire na CaimeSgorr a' Chadail, the western end of LiathachBeinn Alligin across Coire Mhic NobaillBeinn Alligin and Beinn DeargThe crumbling north ridge of Mullach an RathainCoire na CaimeMushroom in Toll BanThe way downThe guys going aheadLooking back up the descent route